裁(cai)剪(jian)就是將衣(yi)料分(fen)(fen)割成各種形態衣(yi)片的工(gong)藝。有(you)批量裁(cai)剪(jian)(又稱工(gong)業裁(cai)剪(jian))和(he)單件裁(cai)剪(jian)之分(fen)(fen)。

　　批量裁剪

　　按(an)(an)照服(fu)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)號(hao)型(xing)系列(lie)制(zhi)(zhi)作樣(yang)(yang)(yang)(yang)板進行(xing)(xing)多疊層的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)(jian)。是(shi)服(fu)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)工(gong)業生(sheng)產(chan)中的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)主要(yao)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)(jian)形式。主要(yao)步驟為：①材料(liao)(liao)(liao)檢驗。主要(yao)是(shi)對衣(yi)(yi)料(liao)(liao)(liao)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)伸縮率(lv)、色(se)(se)牢(lao)度(du)、耐(nai)熱度(du)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)理(li)(li)化檢驗，檢查疵點，測幅寬，整理(li)(li)緯斜(xie)以及熱預(yu)縮等(deng)(deng)。②制(zhi)(zhi)定規(gui)格和樣(yang)(yang)(yang)(yang)板。根據服(fu)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)款式、規(gui)格、衣(yi)(yi)料(liao)(liao)(liao)性(xing)能和縫制(zhi)(zhi)工(gong)藝要(yao)求(qiu)，用(yong)(yong)(yong)硬紙板制(zhi)(zhi)成(cheng)(cheng)劃(hua)(hua)樣(yang)(yang)(yang)(yang)用(yong)(yong)(yong)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)衣(yi)(yi)片(pian)樣(yang)(yang)(yang)(yang)板，并(bing)制(zhi)(zhi)定規(gui)格搭配(pei)等(deng)(deng)。③排料(liao)(liao)(liao)。將(jiang)各(ge)(ge)衣(yi)(yi)片(pian)樣(yang)(yang)(yang)(yang)板排列(lie)在(zai)衣(yi)(yi)料(liao)(liao)(liao)上或(huo)(huo)與衣(yi)(yi)料(liao)(liao)(liao)幅寬相同(tong)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)紙上，以求(qiu)最(zui)大(da)限度(du)地提高衣(yi)(yi)料(liao)(liao)(liao)利用(yong)(yong)(yong)率(lv)。④劃(hua)(hua)樣(yang)(yang)(yang)(yang)。按(an)(an)排料(liao)(liao)(liao)確定的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)格式，依(yi)樣(yang)(yang)(yang)(yang)板劃(hua)(hua)出衣(yi)(yi)片(pian)輪廓和記號(hao)。批量大(da)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)產(chan)品(pin)通(tong)常(chang)用(yong)(yong)(yong)漏花樣(yang)(yang)(yang)(yang)板(將(jiang)排料(liao)(liao)(liao)線路鉆(zhan)成(cheng)(cheng)等(deng)(deng)距(ju)連續針孔的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)樣(yang)(yang)(yang)(yang)板)，以刷(shua)樣(yang)(yang)(yang)(yang)(用(yong)(yong)(yong)粉末(mo)刷(shua)入孔內(nei)使(shi)之漏下顯形)取(qu)代劃(hua)(hua)樣(yang)(yang)(yang)(yang)。20世紀60年代出現用(yong)(yong)(yong)于服(fu)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)設計的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)計算機(ji)(ji)(ji)輔助設計系統(tong)(CAD)，按(an)(an)實樣(yang)(yang)(yang)(yang)或(huo)(huo)比例繪(hui)出排料(liao)(liao)(liao)圖的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)新技術。⑤鋪(pu)(pu)料(liao)(liao)(liao)。按(an)(an)排料(liao)(liao)(liao)劃(hua)(hua)樣(yang)(yang)(yang)(yang)所需長(chang)度(du)、幅寬、數量，將(jiang)衣(yi)(yi)料(liao)(liao)(liao)多層疊鋪(pu)(pu)在(zai)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)(jian)臺上。50年代除手工(gong)鋪(pu)(pu)料(liao)(liao)(liao)外，采(cai)用(yong)(yong)(yong)手推車(che)或(huo)(huo)往返式電(dian)動鋪(pu)(pu)料(liao)(liao)(liao)機(ji)(ji)(ji)操作。80年代應用(yong)(yong)(yong)微電(dian)腦(nao)控(kong)制(zhi)(zhi)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)自(zi)(zi)動鋪(pu)(pu)料(liao)(liao)(liao)機(ji)(ji)(ji)，能自(zi)(zi)動進行(xing)(xing)正、反(fan)面交叉(cha)或(huo)(huo)單面鋪(pu)(pu)料(liao)(liao)(liao)，自(zi)(zi)動理(li)(li)邊(bian)、記數等(deng)(deng)。⑥開(kai)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)。按(an)(an)劃(hua)(hua)樣(yang)(yang)(yang)(yang)線路將(jiang)衣(yi)(yi)料(liao)(liao)(liao)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)成(cheng)(cheng)衣(yi)(yi)片(pian)。通(tong)常(chang)用(yong)(yong)(yong)立式電(dian)剪(jian)(jian)刀(dao)(dao)(見(jian)日用(yong)(yong)(yong)五(wu)金)，最(zui)高開(kai)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)厚度(du)可(ke)達160mm，薄型(xing)織(zhi)物約(yue)200層。此外還有各(ge)(ge)種(zhong)輔助裁(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)(jian)設備(bei)，如帶式裁(cai)(cai)(cai)布機(ji)(ji)(ji)(又稱環形刀(dao)(dao)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)(jian)機(ji)(ji)(ji))、沖裁(cai)(cai)(cai)機(ji)(ji)(ji)等(deng)(deng)。60年代末(mo)出現使(shi)用(yong)(yong)(yong)電(dian)腦(nao)控(kong)制(zhi)(zhi)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)自(zi)(zi)動裁(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)(jian)機(ji)(ji)(ji)(CAM)。⑦分包(bao)(bao)(bao)。將(jiang)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)好的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)衣(yi)(yi)片(pian)按(an)(an)不同(tong)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)規(gui)格、顏色(se)(se)歸(gui)類，分成(cheng)(cheng)若干包(bao)(bao)(bao)。⑧編(bian)(bian)號(hao)。將(jiang)一(yi)件(包(bao)(bao)(bao))服(fu)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)各(ge)(ge)組合(he)衣(yi)(yi)片(pian)編(bian)(bian)成(cheng)(cheng)同(tong)一(yi)個順序號(hao)。有以包(bao)(bao)(bao)編(bian)(bian)號(hao)或(huo)(huo)以件編(bian)(bian)號(hao)兩種(zhong)。襯(chen)衫、睡衣(yi)(yi)等(deng)(deng)產(chan)品(pin)通(tong)常(chang)以一(yi)匹(pi)同(tong)色(se)(se)原(yuan)料(liao)(liao)(liao)按(an)(an)序編(bian)(bian)號(hao)，對易(yi)產(chan)生(sheng)色(se)(se)差的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)采(cai)取(qu)分層以件編(bian)(bian)號(hao)。用(yong)(yong)(yong)自(zi)(zi)動號(hao)碼機(ji)(ji)(ji)打印。⑨扎包(bao)(bao)(bao)。將(jiang)產(chan)品(pin)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)組合(he)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)片(pian)按(an)(an)規(gui)定的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)搭配(pei)要(yao)求(qiu)包(bao)(bao)(bao)扎在(zai)一(yi)起，并(bing)在(zai)包(bao)(bao)(bao)外注(zhu)明標號(hao)，掛上標簽。在(zai)服(fu)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)加(jia)工(gong)廠給客戶(hu)做(zuo)大(da)貨時就會用(yong)(yong)(yong)批量裁(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)(jian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)方(fang)法進行(xing)(xing)。

　　單件裁剪

　　對合體(ti)(ti)(ti)要(yao)求(qiu)較高或(huo)特殊體(ti)(ti)(ti)型(xing)(xing)的(de)定制服(fu)裝(zhuang)加工(gong)、樣(yang)品(pin)等(deng)進(jin)(jin)行(xing)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)(jian)(jian)。根(gen)據(ju)穿著對象的(de)體(ti)(ti)(ti)型(xing)(xing)或(huo)樣(yang)品(pin)測(ce)(ce)取(qu)各(ge)種裁(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)(jian)(jian)數據(ju)。上(shang)衣(yi)主要(yao)測(ce)(ce)量(liang)(liang)部(bu)(bu)位有衣(yi)長、胸(xiong)(xiong)圍(wei)、肩(jian)寬、袖(xiu)長、領圍(wei)。緊身式女(nv)裝(zhuang)還需增測(ce)(ce)腰(yao)圍(wei)、臀圍(wei)、乳高、乳距、前后腰(yao)節長度(du)等(deng)。褲的(de)主要(yao)測(ce)(ce)量(liang)(liang)部(bu)(bu)位有褲長、腰(yao)圍(wei)、臀圍(wei)、上(shang)襠(dang)長。單(dan)件(jian)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)(jian)(jian)的(de)方法(fa)(fa)(fa)(fa)(fa)(fa)主要(yao)有 5種。①比例法(fa)(fa)(fa)(fa)(fa)(fa)：即胸(xiong)(xiong)度(du)法(fa)(fa)(fa)(fa)(fa)(fa)或(huo)臀度(du)法(fa)(fa)(fa)(fa)(fa)(fa)。上(shang)衣(yi)以(yi)人(ren)(ren)體(ti)(ti)(ti)胸(xiong)(xiong)圍(wei)為基(ji)(ji)(ji)礎，下裝(zhuang)以(yi)人(ren)(ren)體(ti)(ti)(ti)臀圍(wei)為基(ji)(ji)(ji)礎，對其他(ta)部(bu)(bu)位尺(chi)寸(cun)根(gen)據(ju)胸(xiong)(xiong)圍(wei)或(huo)臀圍(wei)進(jin)(jin)行(xing)比例分配(pei)。②原(yuan)(yuan)型(xing)(xing)法(fa)(fa)(fa)(fa)(fa)(fa)：又稱基(ji)(ji)(ji)型(xing)(xing)法(fa)(fa)(fa)(fa)(fa)(fa)。依測(ce)(ce)量(liang)(liang)人(ren)(ren)體(ti)(ti)(ti)的(de)尺(chi)寸(cun)為基(ji)(ji)(ji)準，繪制模具(ju)式衣(yi)片原(yuan)(yuan)型(xing)(xing)，然(ran)后在原(yuan)(yuan)型(xing)(xing)基(ji)(ji)(ji)礎上(shang)按(an)款式特點作局部(bu)(bu)調整，再進(jin)(jin)行(xing)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)(jian)(jian)。③定寸(cun)法(fa)(fa)(fa)(fa)(fa)(fa)：用文字或(huo)圖形將各(ge)部(bu)(bu)位裁(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)(jian)(jian)所需數據(ju)全部(bu)(bu)標(biao)出，然(ran)后按(an)標(biao)出的(de)尺(chi)寸(cun)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)(jian)(jian)。④短寸(cun)法(fa)(fa)(fa)(fa)(fa)(fa)：對人(ren)(ren)體(ti)(ti)(ti)各(ge)部(bu)(bu)位盡可能進(jin)(jin)行(xing)測(ce)(ce)量(liang)(liang)，然(ran)后按(an)取(qu)得的(de)數據(ju)進(jin)(jin)行(xing)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)(jian)(jian)。⑤立體(ti)(ti)(ti)法(fa)(fa)(fa)(fa)(fa)(fa)：在人(ren)(ren)體(ti)(ti)(ti)模型(xing)(xing)或(huo)人(ren)(ren)體(ti)(ti)(ti)上(shang)直接塑造(zao)服(fu)裝(zhuang)款式，并做好各(ge)種標(biao)記，是將設計(ji)造(zao)型(xing)(xing)和裁(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)(jian)(jian)融為一體(ti)(ti)(ti)的(de)方法(fa)(fa)(fa)(fa)(fa)(fa)。縫制前還需復原(yuan)(yuan)為平(ping)面，作必要(yao)的(de)修正或(huo)復制成樣(yang)板(ban)。常用于裁(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)(jian)(jian)某些立體(ti)(ti)(ti)感強(qiang)，造(zao)型(xing)(xing)難度(du)高，衣(yi)料柔軟，具(ju)懸垂特性的(de)女(nv)式時(shi)裝(zhuang)。服(fu)裝(zhuang)加工(gong)廠給客戶(hu)打版時(shi)就會用單(dan)件(jian)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)(jian)(jian)的(de)方法(fa)(fa)(fa)(fa)(fa)(fa)進(jin)(jin)行(xing)。